Back in the Himalayas, this time I'm experiencing Bhutan....

On top of the world....well almost, at 3988m. Feels like I could reach out and touch the Himalayas

Ahhh…Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon….just the name conjures up a sense of the mystic, doesn’t it?! And my short time in western Bhutan did that!

After a frenetic few days in Kolkata and mingling with the enthusiastic & loud Easter/holidaying Indians in Darjeeling, it was a balm to cross the border at Phuentsholing - the gateway to Bhutan. The contrast was  staggering. Taking just a few steps and the noise level plummeted, it was no less colourful, but the chaos vanished. Even the immigration officials greeted me with a smile and “welcome to Bhutan”….instead of the bored and stern officialdom of India. 

I’ve arrived…finally fulfilling a long held desire to travel to Bhutan. 

And, interestingly rekindling my curiosity with Buddhism. It’s hard to avoid here! When I studied yin yoga with Sarah Powers about 10 years ago she based her teachings around Buddhism. The philosophy intrigued me, but I confess, I struggled with meditation at that time. Finding Vedic meditation in the last few years has allowed me to access a different perspective on the mind, stress and life’s journey. I had set Buddhism aside. Now it was front and centre. How would it land with me now??

A little 101 of how Buddhism came to Bhutan.  Guru Rinpoche (Precious Guru), also known as Padmasambhava (born of a lotus) is revered as the "Second Buddha" and said to be the reincarnation of Lord Buddha.  He arrived in Bhutan from India in the 8th century to preach and perform miracles. He also spread Buddhism to Tibet at this time, and is usually depicted as having long hair and a curly moustache. Perhaps best known for consecrating the cave where Tiger's Nest Monastery was later built, as he flew to this cliffside location on the back of a tigress so as to subdue the local demon.  He promoted tantric rituals as a means to achieve moksha, which means liberation from the cycle of death. 

101 of the Buddhist teachings…when the Buddha reached enlightenment he began teaching the premise of Buddhism, the Four Noble Truths. The first claims that life is suffering (dukkha)….don’t we know it! The second truth (samudaya) explains why - we suffer because our self-desires can never be satisfied as we always desire more, and we're grasping for & clinging to things/people which can never make us happy. And even if we can find contentment we are still subject to the inescapable fact of aging, illness & death, and so are our loved ones. The cause of suffering is fundamental ignorance or misunderstanding about our own nature and the nature of reality. The third truth (nirodha) says that we must end this ceaseless wanting and grasping if we hope to end suffering. We can lift the veil that is hiding our true nature. The awakened mind is always available, always within reach. The final truth (magga), the Path, explains how - follow the Noble Eightfold Path of right understanding, right thought, right speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right mindfulness and right concentration. Buddha’s blueprint to moksha (freedom).

Easy, huh…!  A couple of observations & impressions stand out for me :

Reincarnation and karma - One thing that strikes me here, and also in other developing Buddhist countries I’ve visited such as Myanmar, is the acceptance of life as it is today. The belief in reincarnation seems to bring some level of contentment…and working through the karma of this life will lead to a more favourable rebirth.  Acceptance that everything is as it should be. 

Devotion - I guess all religions encourage devotion . I’ve certainly witnessed it in Hindu temples.  And my mother was an example of Christian devotion, but unfortunately I haven’t found the same solace from my Presbyterian upbringing that she did. I think my connection was severed when I was trying to make sense of why a loving God would allow a mother of a 12 year old to die. Many years later, and after more grief, I now understand & accept impermanence. There’s a resonance I feel when I enter a Buddhist or Hindu sacred place…I do wonder where that comes from…perhaps a previous life??!!  I love the offerings presented at the altars in these temples - butter lamps are burning, bowls filled with water, along with offerings of rice, fruit, flowers, incense and food such as biscuits and chips(!), and of course a few rupees or Bhutanese Ngultrum. When we find our belief, there is so much reverence. 

Myths - the power of storytelling can evoke a sense of wonder, awaken imagination, ignite inspiration and just be plain humorous! Crazy monks, guardian deities, curses, strange creatures roaming the mountains, thunder dragons, flying gurus, and penis art....yep there is such a thing. Bhutan is a little bit special and so is its folklore! One chorten or stupa was built to subdue a demoness that used to torment the area. While another temple is said to have been built overnight on the left foot of a colossal ogress—otherwise referred to as a demoness—who interrupted the spread of Buddhism as she lay across the land. Don’t worry, there were male demons as well!  There are mythical creatures such as the tiger, snow leopard, Garuda & dragon. They represent such qualities as strength, wisdom & power. We are invited to embody these characteristics and the wisdom of the stories. Thus enriching our lives.

Bhutan has touched me deeply. Wherever I went I was greeted with big smiles and deep bows. Gross National Happiness is a concept embraced here, and desperately needed in the rest of the world. The country is not without its problems as it develops and grows, but Buddhism is providing a solid foundation. 

I will sit with all I have seen, felt and experienced. And, I will continue to seek, learn and absorb the knowledge and wisdom of all philosophies. My life is enriched…. I hope you find solace and enrichment in your own way.

Ahhh, yes....

Namaste,

Julie x